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Welcome to Authorized Appliance Service Free Repair TIPS! We have compiled a variety of repair tips to assist you in making your appliance repairs. 
 Click on an appliance problem below to access free appliance repair tips. 
Additional tips and
appliance information can be found in the parts page.


The Technical help information provided by Authorized Appliance Service is intended for use by qualified service technicians. If you do not possess sufficient mechanical and electrical skills and the ability to follow all safety warnings  and cautions on the product, in the product literature, and in these materials, do not attempt to undertake the repairs  that are depicted in the information to be provided. 
 Instead, contact a qualified Authorized Appliance Service Technician (click here) or request additional technical help.  (click here)


  Won't Fill
  Won't Drain
  Won't Spin
  Won't Agitate
  Won't Turn On
  Won't Complete Cycle
  Has a burning odor


Won't Heat
Won't Turn On
Won't Stop
Won't Complete Cycle
Takes a long time to dry
Makes Noise
Smoking or has a burning odor.


Won't Turn On
Won't Stop
Won't Complete Cycle
Won't Drain
Won't Fill
Won't get the dishes clean
Won't Dry the dishes
Has a burning odor


Won't get cold or cold enough
Door does not seal properly


Surface unit not turning on
Oven Bake or Broil Failure




WASHER WON’T FILL – Check that water is turned on. Check each temperature fill separately, cold, then hot. If either works, the solenoid is probably bad on the one that doesn’t work. On most washers, this is a dual valve and you will have to replace the complete valve assembly. If neither valve is supplying water, then the cause is either a bad timer, or a stuck water level control switch. If water enters the washer, but it doesn’t fill up, the drain hose is probably pushed too far down into the drain pipe causing a siphon effect. The drain hose should only be 6 to 8 inches into the drain pipe, and there must be an air space between the hose and the pipe. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


WASHER WON’T DRAIN – If the motor runs, but the washer doesn’t drain; check for a worn or broken belt. If the belt is okay or it is a direct drive pump, lower the drain hose into a bucket that is lower than the water level in the washer. If no water comes out, there is a clog in the drain hose, either the tub-to-pump hose, the pump-to-drain hose, or the pump itself. A good pair of hose clamping pliers will be a big help in finding out where the clog is. If the motor hums, but doesn’t run, something may be jammed in the pump. Remove the pump from the motor or take the belt off. If the motor runs now, the pump is jammed. If the motor still hums without turning, you’ve got a bad motor. If the washer is dead, either the lid switch is bad, or the timer is bad. Washer motors have an internal overload switch which will temporarily disconnect the power supply from the motor if the motor overheats. If the motor feels hot to the touch, let it cool down and try again. If the motor now runs or hums and you have done the preceding checks, the motor is bad. If the motor is still not doing anything, proceed with checking the lid switch with an ohm meter. If the switch is good, the timer is bad, assuming you have made sure that there is power at the wall outlet. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


WASHER WON’T SPIN – If the motor runs, but the tub doesn’t spin; check for a worn or broken belt. On a direct drive washer check for a bad motor coupling, a three piece device which connects the motor to the transmission. If the motor hums, but won’t run, either the motor is bad, or the pump is jammed. Remove the pump from the motor or take the belt off. If the motor runs now, the pump is jammed. If the motor still hums without turning, you’ve got a bad motor. If the washer is dead, either the lid switch is bad, or the timer is bad. Washer motors have an internal overload switch which will temporarily disconnect the power supply from the motor if the motor overheats. If the motor feels hot to the touch, let it cool down and try again. If the motor now runs or hums and you have done the preceding checks, the motor is bad. If the motor is still not doing anything, proceed with checking the lid switch with an ohm meter. If the switch is good, the timer is bad, assuming you have made sure that there is power at the wall outlet. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


WASHER WON’T AGITATE – Some washers will not proceed past fill unless the lid switch senses that the lid is closed. If the washer is dead after it has finished filling, check the lid switch. If the motor is running, but the agitator is not moving, or barely moving, remove the agitator and confirm that the shaft from the transmission is moving back and forth. If not, there is a clutch or transmission issue. If the shaft is moving normally, the coupling device from the shaft to the agitator body is worn. If the agitator is a two piece design, and the bottom moves, but the top doesn’t, then the agitator dogs are worn out. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

WASHER WON’T TURN ON – If you hear a humming sound, check to see that the water is turned on. If the water is on, there is, either a clogged hose, clogged valve or a bad valve. If no sound, check that there is the proper voltage at the wall outlet, using a multi-meter. If the washer has a mechanical timer (one that you pull out the knob to start it), using the wiring diagram and a multi-meter, determine that the necessary voltage is reaching the timer. If not, check the diagram or trace the wiring from where the power cord comes into the washer to the timer. Look for a bad place in the cord or wiring harness, and check for the presence of a fuse. If the necessary voltage is present, unplug the washer and disconnect the timer connector(s). Make sure and mark where the wires go. Using the timer chart on the wiring diagram, check the points on the time for the proper continuity, and replace if faulty. If the timer is electronic, power to the control and no power out means a bad control board. Always do a power reset on electronically controlled appliances before replacing any parts. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

WASHER WON’T COMPLETE THE CYCLE – This is usually an error or fault situation. The washer has sensed a problem and has stopped until the problem is resolved. Look for a flashing "E"rror or "F"ault code. Then check this code in your manual to determine what the code indicates. If your washer has a mechanical timer and does not complete the cycle, you have a timer issue, or a lid switch problem. See the above sections on Agitate, Drain, and Spin. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

WASHER LEAKS – The first step would be to find exactly where the leak is. Just seeing water on the floor does not tell you anything except there is a problem. Possible causes are overfilling, a clogged drain pipe, a leaking seal, bad drain or other hose, or leaking pump. It is helpful to know at what point in the cycle the leak occurs. In most cases you will need to remove the front panel of the washer and start a cycle while watching questionable areas. With the panel removed so you may see traces of where the leak is emanating from. RUNNING THE WASHER WITH THE PANEL REMOVED IS DANGEROUS – KEEP CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS, LOSS OF LIMB OR LIFE CAN RESULT! (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

WASHER OVERFLOWS – Washers are equipped with a pressure switch to control the water level in the tub. As water enters the tub, air is forced through a plastic tube connected to the pressure switch. When a sufficient amount of pressure is applied to the switch for it to actuate, power is removed from the water valve(s), filling stops, and the cycle resumes. If for some reason the switch is not actuated (clogged, leaking, or disconnected air tube), or is inoperative, the water flow will continue. If you turn off the washer and the flow continues, the problem is a faulty fill valve and needs to be replaced. If the flow stops when the washer is turned off, the problem is electrical and is either a bad pressure switch, or an actuation failure. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

WASHER HAS A BURNING ODOR – Possible causes are a slipping belt, brake, or clutch, or an overheating motor. (GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)



DRYER WON’T HEAT – To determine the cause of no heat, you will need a multi-meter, and, if possible, the wiring diagram for the heating circuit. Components to be checked are the power supply, thermal fuse, heat element, thermostat (2), belt switch (if present), motor switch, and timer. The dryer motor runs on 110 – 125 VAC, while the heat circuit requires 205 – 250 VAC to operate. It is possible for one side of the circuit to be bad and the other side to supply the voltage to the motor, allowing the motor to run, but no heat to be generated. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)



When the dryer runs, but the drum fails to tumble, the most common cause is a loose or broken belt. Some belts are accessed through the front by removing the front panel, and others are accessed from the rear through a small access panel. In either event the belt is installed on the drum from the front and connected to the motor pulley from either the front or the rear depending on the design. Dryer belts go around the drum and a pulley on the end of the motor shaft. Tension is applied to the belt by a spring loaded idler and pulley. There are a number of different ways that these are designed and failure to properly install the belt can result in damage to the dryer. The best insurance is to call a trained professional. If the belt is intact, the most likely cause for the no tumble is a bad front or rear bearing. This is usually preceded by loud squeaks or squeals from the dryer for some time before the failure occurs. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DRYER WON’T TURN ON – First ascertain that the wall outlet is supplying a minimum of 205 VAC across the two hot legs, and 110 VAC from each hot leg to neutral. With the dryer disconnected from the power supply, check continuity across the door switch with the door closed and wires removed from the switch. If there are three wires, the switch contacts will be marked C for common, NO for normally open, and NC for normally closed. With the door closed, there should be continuity between C and NO, and with the door open, continuity between C and NC. The next thing to check is continuity across the terminal of the start switch. There should be no continuity until the switch is actuated. If this all checks out ok, a wiring diagram is going to be helpful for the remaining steps. The timer contacts need to be checked against the timer chart that is on the wiring diagram, the thermal fuse needs to be checked on certain models, and the motor overload needs to be checked. If no problems have been found at this point, each wire will have to be checked from the timer through to the motor for continuity. Check each wire individually and reconnect each wire after it is checked. If you have completed the complete check out procedure and still have not located a fault, put everything back together and try the dryer again. Often times, there has been a poor connection that was corrected just by removing and then reconnecting a wire. At this point, if the dryer still won’t start, I strongly recommend calling a qualified professional, as the dryer is going to have to be checked further, with power applied. This is dangerous, and beyond the scope of these tips. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DRYER WON’T STOP – The two instances of a dryer failing to stop running are:

  1. The dryer continues to run after the door is opened. In this case, replace the door switch.
  2. The timer is not advancing. In this case, replace the timer. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


DRYER WON’T COMPLETE THE CYCLE – If the dryer has stopped before the end of a cycle, try to restart it. If it won’t start, proceed as described above in "My dryer won’t start". If it does start, let it run to see if it completes the cycle now. This symptom most commonly indicates a motor overheating and the motor will likely need replacing at some point. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


DRYER TAKES A LONG TIME TO DRY – If heat is being generated, but drying time are increased, this indicates an air flow problem most commonly caused by a clogged external vent, or a clogged airway within the dryer. Clogged or restricted airways and vents need to be thoroughly cleaned. FAILURE TO DO THIS CAN EASILY RESULT IN A FIRE. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DRYER MAKES NOISE – Dryer noise can be classified as squealing, scraping, metal on metal noise, or rattling noise. Inspect all contact areas of the drum; turn the drum by hand to see if the noise occurs. Rattling noises generally come from either objects that have worked their way into the fins inside the drum, or a blower wheel that has become loose on the motor shaft. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DRYER IS SMOKING OR HAS A BURNING ODOR – It is important to determine if the problem is electrical. Unplug the dryer, or turn off the appropriate breaker. Remove the back panel, if removable, or the bottom front panel, and visually inspect for signs of burning or electrical arcing. If none is found, proceed with removing the front panel and drum. Again inspect for signs of burning or arcing. You should have removed the belt when the drum was removed; inspect it for signs of slippage. Usually there will be a build-up of black residue on the bottom of the cabinet near the motor pulley or idler. Check also that the motor turns freely with no binding. If necessary, and ONLY IF YOU HAVE THE NECESSARY TECHNICAL SKILL TO DO SO SAFELY, reapply power and start the motor, keeping well clear of moving parts. Watch for smoking. Sometimes a burning odor is detected if lint has been disturbed and has settled on the heat element. While the dryer is disassembled is an excellent time to clean out the accumulated lint. BE SURE THAT YOU HAVE AGAIN REMOVED THE POWER BY UNPLUGGING THE DRYER OR TURNING OFF THE BREAKER! GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)



DISHWASHER WON’T TURN ON – First determine that the appropriate voltage is being supplied. For electronic controls there should be indicator LEDS that light up when buttons are pressed, which indicates a power supply is present. On mechanical timer machines, rotate the timer slowly through a complete rotation. If any noises are heard, other than the timer itself clicking, there is an adequate power supply. If it is found that there is no power to the dishwasher check the breaker. It is NOT sufficient to visually check a breaker; you must turn it completely off, count to five, and then turn it all the way on. Try the dishwasher again. If there is still no indication of power being supplied, remove the kick plate and locate the metal box where the house wiring comes into the dishwasher. Turn the breaker off; remove the box cover on the dishwasher if one is present. You should see three wires coming in, a black, a white, and a green. The black and the white should be connected by wire nuts to the matching colored wires from the machine. The green may be likewise connected, or may be directly connected to the machine frame. This is a ground wire and is designed to prevent electrical a shock. Remove the wire nuts from the black wire and the white wire. Separate the black and white house wiring wires so that they do not touch each other or any metal. Turn the breaker back on and, using a multi meter, check that 110-125 VAC is being supplied. If no power is present, you have a house wiring or breaker problem, and should call a licensed electrician. If power is present, the problem is in the dishwasher. The next step would be to turn the breaker back off and remove the door liner. The door latching mechanism operates a switch or switches that trip when the door is closed, and allow(s) power to flow to the timer or control board. Check the latch mechanism to make sure it is operating the switch(es), and check the switch(es) for proper opening and closing. The next thing to check is the timer or control board; check for the appropriate voltage at the timer or control board. Many control boards have a fuse that will also need to be checked for continuity across the connections. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER WON’T STOP – This problem is primarily confined to dishwashers with mechanical timers; the timer will have to be replaced. Electronically controlled dishwashers have a turgidity sensor which determines how often the water is drained and refilled. A bad sensor or control board, in rare instances, can cause the dishwasher to drain and fill repeatedly. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER WON’T COMPLETE THE CYCLE – Possible causes are a bad timer or control board, bad motor, or some other failure which has been noted by the electronic control which then stops the dishwasher. Look for an "E" or "F" followed by a number, a letter abbreviation, or a flashing light sequence, which is indicating the error or fault. When these occur, it is important to determine if the fault actually occurred, the sensor is bad, or the control itself is bad. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER WON’T DRAIN – Determine if the pump motor runs during the drain portion of the cycle. If it is not running, check for the appropriate voltage (105 – 125 VAC) at the pump motor. If voltage is present, replace the pump, if no voltage, replace the control/timer. If the motor runs, but no, or very little water flows, check the connection point of the drain hose to the disposer or drain bib. If the disposer is new, check that the factory installed drain plug has been removed, Also check for a clog of grease or other residue. Check the sump area inside the dishwasher for any foreign material that may be blocking the intake. Finally remove the drain hose from the dishwasher end. It would be wise to have a large, low profile container to catch the drain water, and some old towels to mop up the mess. A wet/dry vacuum is helpful to empty the dishwasher tub. When the drain hose is disconnected from the dishwasher, the remaining water in the tub should run out freely. If it does, the drain hose is clogged; if it does not, the check valve may be stuck, or there may be a clog or restriction at the connection. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER WON’T FILL – Make sure that the supply valve under the sink is turned on. Remove the kick plate, turn off the breaker, locate the inlet valve where the water line connects to the dishwasher and disconnect the electrical connector. Turn the breaker back on, set the timer to fill, shut the door (making sure it is latched), then, with a multi meter, check for power at the valve connector. If the appropriate power(105 – 125 VAC) is present, replace the valve. If power is not present, check the float to the flood switch for free movement, and check the switch for continuity when float is down. Finally, check the appropriate output portion of the timer or control and replace defective parts found. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER WON’T GET THE DISHES CLEAN – Clean dishes are a result of a properly operating dishwasher, water temperature (120-140 deg F), and the proper amount and type of detergent. With detergent, the least amount to do the job, or a premeasured package or tablet is recommended. I have found that Finish brand hard tablets with the red Powerball do very well in our water. I also recommend a water softener, if practical. Dishes should be pre-rinsed and all food particles, paper and plastic debris, and difficult residue, like egg yolk, should be removed from dishes before putting them into the dishwasher. Check the spray arm(s) for ease of rotation, clogged holes and for anything that could prevent proper rotation. To check for proper rotation, line up the spray arm(s) front to back or side to side, run the dishwasher for a short while, then check the arms to see that they have moved. Finally check that the water temperature is remaining hot from the heater working properly. Florida water has a high lime content, when the water evaporates the lime remains as a white, powdery substance, which overtime hardens almost like concrete. There are a number of chemicals available to combat this and if a water softener is not in place or operating correctly, a chemical agent should be used periodically to combat the mineral build up. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER WON’T DRY THE DISHES – For dishes to dry properly during the dry portion of the cycle, the heater must be working and the steam vent open. Turn the timer to dry, close and latch the door, wait a few minutes, open the door and carefully touch the heat element momentarily to see if is hot. If not, check the element for continuity (it should read approximately 25-50 ohms) and check the safety thermostat for continuity. If the heat is working, check the vent. Vents get clogged with lime also. Some vents open and close by the action of a small motor. If present check the motor for proper operation. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER HAS A BURNING ODOR – This is caused primarily by some foreign object touching the heat element during it operation, or a mineral build up on the element. In some cases the dishwasher motor may have a bad bearing causing it to overheat, or a drain solenoid is being supplied constant power, causing it to burn up. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)

DISHWASHER LEAKS – The greatest cause of dishwasher leaks is using too much or the wrong type of detergent which results in over-sudsing. Dishwasher doors only seal around the top and sides. The bottom of the tub has an elevated lip at the front to contain the water. When over sudsing occurs, the suds exceed the height of the lip allowing the sudsy water to spill over. The quickest cure is to add a cup of cooking oil to the water in the tub, and let the cycle complete. Rewash the dishes to remove any oil residue. It should also be noted that prewashing with a liquid dish detergent and then placing the dishes in the dishwasher without thoroughly rinsing, can also cause the over sudsing condition.GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)



REFRIGERATOR WON’T GET COLD OR COLD ENOUGH – Open the freezer compartment and listen for a fan. If fan is not working, hold the light switch button in and see if fan comes on; some manufacturers wire the fan through the light switch button, so that the fan only runs when the door is closed. If the fan runs, observe the interior back wall of the freezer and look for a formation of ice crystals; If present, a defrost problem is indicated. Remove the back panel to access the evaporator area. There are three components that control the defrost function, the heater, thermostat (bi-metal), and the timer or electronic defrost control. If there is a mechanical timer, manually turn it until the defrost cycle begins; you will feel a detent and all the motors will stop. Wait a few minutes to determine if the heater comes on; you may be able to see a red glow if you turn out the light, or you may hear a sizzling noise as melting ice drips onto the heater. If the heater comes on, the timer is bad and needs to be replaced. If the heater does not come on, proceed with continuity checks of the heater and the defrost thermostat. This should be done with the refrigerator unplugged or the breaker tripped, because there are live electrical circuits that can arc to the evaporator and put a hole in it requiring very expensive repairs or replacement of the refrigerator. Once you have found the defective part, proceed with melting out as much of the ice as you can; a hand held hair dryer or heat gun can be used, but be very careful not to melt any plastic parts or wire insulation. Another option is to just leave the refrigerator turned off and the door open, until all the ice has melted. Then, remove any food that will cause a mess if it melts, eg, ice, Popsicles, ice cream, etc.

If frost build up does not appear to be the issue, proceed with observation of the evaporator coil which is located behind the interior back panel of the freezer compartment. If the compressor is running, there should be a light frost pattern over about 80% of the coil length. If there is heavy frost in a small area of the coil where the capillary is joined to the evaporator, light frost on only a small portion of the coil, or no frost, there may be a sealed system leak, and, if out of warranty, you probably should consider replacement, but a few further checks should be done prior to replacement.

No frost at all on the evaporator, and the fan running, can be an indication that the compressor is not starting. Remove the cover, if present, from the motor compartment and place your hand on top of the compressor. It should be warm, and vibrating slightly. Some compressors run very quietly and it is difficult to tell if they are running at any particular time without a clamp on meter that measures current flow. A cool or cold compressor indicates one that has not run for a while, and you need to check that the appropriate power is being supplied to the compressor; also check the overload device for continuity and, if none, replace the overload device. CAUTION – Some newer compressors are designed to operate on low voltage supplied through an inverter to the compressor. You should always consult the manufacturer’s wiring diagram for details. If no power is getting to the compressor, there is either a bad control board or cold control (thermostat), or the unit is in defrost mode.

It should be noted that when a refrigerator’s fans are both not running, it is either in defrost mode or the cold control is satisfied. Refrigerators with static condensers do not have condenser fans. If a single fan is not running, you must check for the appropriate power supply at the fan motor connection. CAUTION – some fan motors run on low DC voltage. Consult the motor label for the electrical specifics of the motor you are checking. If the power supply is present, replace the fan motor. If no power supply is present, proceed below.

With electronically controlled units, remove power by unplugging or turning off the appropriate breaker for five minutes and then restore power. This will take the control out of defrost mode. When this occurs, you should hear both fans (evaporator and condenser) start and the compressor may start, may try to start and click off. If it starts, let it run for ten to fifteen minutes and then check the frost pattern. If all is normal, you may be ok now, but keep a close watch for 24 to 48 hours. Sometimes power fluctuations cause an electronic control to get con fused and it just needs to be reset. If the problem recurs, replace the control board.

Mechanical controls will require a continuity check across the control terminals. If there is continuity, move to the time. Manually advance the timer ¼ turn. The unit should start up; if so replace the timer.

If the compressor sounds as though it is straining to start and then an audible click is heard, replace the relay and overload. If this doesn’t get the compressor started and running, the compressor is locked up and will need to be replaced. Compressor replacement is expensive and requires special equipment. If out of warranty, you should consider replacing the refrigerator. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


REFRIGERATOR DOESN’T SEAL – Examine the door seal, and if it is torn, misshapen, or not seated properly, the seal will need to be replaced, reshaped (use a hair dryer or heat gun on a very low setting), or reseated. A heated door seal is very fragile and tears easily, use extreme care.

If the door seal passes inspection, and the door does not close all the way and pops back open if you force it closed, something is blocking it on the inside. Make sure all shelves are seated properly, all bins and drawers are installed correctly and closed completely. Check that no items are past the shelf edge and that the door shelves are in correctly and not hitting anything.

If the door closes, except for a small area usually near a corner, the door has been racked (forced out of shape). Slightly loosen the screws all around the perimeter of the liner, twist the door in the opposite direction to the non-contacting portion, retighten the screws at the corners only, and recheck. If the door is now ok, tighten the rest of the screws. If not loosen the corner screws and rack the door some more. You may have to hold it in position while tightening the screws. Repeat until door closes properly.

If the door closes but, not easily, or if it doesn’t appear level, it may need a hinge adjustment, or the spacer(s) at the bottom may be worn out.

On top mount freezer models where the freezer door has the problem, to level the door, loosen the screws on the top hinge, lift the door to the level position and tighten the screws. To raise the door, remove the top hinge, lift the door off, and add a spacer or two (if nylon spacers are not readily available, you can use flat metal washers), and replace the door and top hinge. If the fresh food door has the problem, remove the freezer door, then remove the middle hinge (some have a removable pin so that you only need to unscrew or pull out the pin), and lift the fresh food door off of the bottom hinge; proceed with spacers or washers, as above, until door positions properly. It is good practice to lubricate hinge pins and spacers during these procedures.

Most side by side refrigerators have two-piece-spacers on the bottom called door cams. These keep the door at the proper height and assist in door closure. They are available together in a kit, and should be replaced when worn. They are model specific, so be sure to get the correct ones for your particular model.GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


REFRIGERATOR LEAKS – There are only two sources for water in a refrigerator; the water that supplies the ice maker and water dispenser, and the water that is produced from the melting ice during the defrost cycle.

Water from the ice maker and water dispensing system is comprised of two sections, the pressure side and the distribution side. A leak on the pressure side will leak constantly until the water supply is turned off. The pressure line runs from the supply valve (usually at the wall behind the refrigerator) and runs to the inlet valve on the back of the refrigerator. In some cases this line first goes directly to, or flows through a fitting to the filter before the inlet valve. This is a pressure line also. Inlet valves for systems with both ice and water are dual valves in that one pressure line comes in and two distribution lines, individually operated by the appropriate switch, go out. The one going to the ice maker would leak only when the ice maker cycles. This line is visible and travels from the inlet valve, up the outside back of the refrigerator and joins a fitting just before it enters the freezer. The distribution line for the water dispenser is a bit more complicated. It runs from the inlet valve through the motor compartment, up through the bottom, into the fresh food section and connects to a reservoir, tank, or coil of tubing (which retains water and allows it to be cold when dispensed). Often the tubing passing near the compressor becomes brittle and breaks. It will only leak while the dispenser is calling for water. Tubing, reservoirs, tanks and tubing coils must be replaced they cannot normally be repaired. Leaking pressure must be replaced with lines designed to carry water under pressure. Lines leaking at fittings can often be repaired by cutting off the bad portion or fitting, putting on a new fitting and reattaching the line.

Leaks from the melting ice during the defrost cycle is mostly evident by a small puddle of water directly under the freezer door of a side by side refrigerator and results from a clogged defrost drain. The drain runs from a hole in the small pan under the evaporator coil, through a tube, which allows the defrost water to enter a pan under the refrigerator where it remains until the motor compartment heat evaporates it. These pans normally do not need to be emptied. When the drain is clogged, water in the drain pan in the freezer refreezes. This eventually overflows the drain pan and collects on the floor of the freezer and when that area is full of ice, the water then begins to run out from under the door during the defrost cycle. To clear the clogged drain, use a turkey baster full of hot water and force it through the drain; also remove all the accumulated ice.

In top mount refrigerators with clogged defrost drains, water is usually found on a shelf directly under where the drain leaves the freezer and exits the back of the fresh food compartment, or at the bottom of the refrigerator. The drain in top mount freezers is cleared in the same manner as in side by sides, with the following caveats: On some models the freezer drain drips into a cup device which is attached to a hole in the back wall – the cup must be removed and cleaned out as well as any accessible exterior drain tube on the rear of the refrigerator. GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)




SURFACE UNIT NOT TURNING ON – On a coil type burner, remove the coil unit, check the contacts for continuity, examine for pitting or carbon build up which can prevent good contact. If no continuity, replace coil unit. If pitting or carbon is present, clean and smooth contacts, and replace receptacle.

If coil unit checks ok, replace control switch.

On smooth top units, check the switch first. With the appliance unplugged or the breaker turned off, refer to the wiring diagram, and check the switch contacts for make and break. When performing this check always remove at least one wire from the circuit being tested to prevent getting a false back reading. Replace switch if any failures are found. If the doe’s not sealswitch checks ok, check the wire pairs for continuity. Any failure here requires the burner unit to be replaced. Burner replacement will require the top being removed, and with some units, recalibration will be necessary. Follow the instructions that come with the new part.

Indicator lights that don’t come on or won’t turn off, are checked in a like manner. Hot indicator lights are controlled by a sensor mounted in the burner unit; some are available separately and some require the burner assembly to be replaced as a unit.GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)


Remove the non-functioning element from its mounting, remove the wire from one side and check the element for continuity; replace if necessary. If the element is good, reattach the removed wire and remount the element. If the oven has analog controls, it will have a bulb and capillary thermostat. Check it for continuity across the terminals; replace if necessary. Some Analog controlled ovens have a separate selector switch. This switch also needs to be checked for proper operation. If a time bake option is present, check that both the time-on and time-off selectors are set to the current time on the clock. If either knob is pushed in, the oven will not come on.

On electronically controlled ovens, there will be a sensor instead of the bulb and capillary thermostat. To check the sensor, disconnect it at the outside rear of the unit, and read the resistance (ohms) of the sensor with a multi meter. It should read approximately 1000 – 1200 ohms at room temperature. If the sensor is good, and the element is good, you will need to replace the electronic control.

On built in ovens, where everything appears to be working, but neither element gets hot, there is a good chance the thermal protector has blown. This is a non resettable device that looks like a dryer thermostat and is located usually on the back or top of the oven cabinet. The oven will have to be pulled from its installed location to access the thermal protector. Single ovens can usually be removed by one person of strength, if the oven door is removed first. Consult your owner’s manual for oven door removal. There will be screws attaching the oven to the surrounding cabinet; some of these are concealed by trim pieces that will have to be removed first. Have a pad on the floor in front of the installed oven (the removed oven should be placed on this pad, which will protect the floor and make the oven easier to move). Remove the back overlaying panel from the oven and you should see a circular, quarter size device with two wires going to it (one wire coming from the control panel and other going to both elements. Remove one wire from the thermal protector and check continuity across the terminals of the thermal protector. Replace if necessary, making sure to maintain the specifications of the device. Replace the removed panel to the back of the oven. It is prudent to inspect all the wires and connectors before putting the panel back on. You can repower the oven briefly in order to try it out before reinstalling; CAUTION STAY WELL CLEAR OF ANY EXPOSED WIRING AND CONNECTIONS! HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT AND IMPROPER CONTACT RESULT IN ELECTROCUTION, INJURY, OR DEATH!. The door does not have to be on, but if you get a "door open" error; hold your finger on the light switch button. When you have determined that the oven is now operating, remove power once again and reinstall the oven, and replace the screws, trim, and oven door.GO TO  TOP OF PAGE)